Did You Know The World’s Oldest Restaurant Kept Its Oven Burning Through Civil War, A Pandemic, And 300 Years of History?

While many restaurants around the world can boast a storied past, none quite compare to Sobrino de Botín nestled in the heart of Madrid on Calle Cuchilleros. This spot is widely celebrated as the world's oldest restaurant, established in 1725, it has earned it a place in the Guinness Book of Records.

However, though the 1725 date is proudly displayed on its stone facade, some research suggests that the current establishment actually opened in 1865 as "Pastelería de Cándido Remis, sobrino de Botín". The restaurant's origins can be traced to a late 18th-century establishment called "Pastelería de Botín" in Madrid's Plaza de Herradores, owned by José Puertas Sánchez (known as Botín), who died in 1847.

After several changes in management and ownership through family members, Cándido Remis eventually broke away to establish his own premises at 17 Calle de Cuchilleros. This location continues to operate today, though ownership changed in the 1930s when the González family acquired it—a family that still manages the restaurant in the present day. Interestingly, the González family later purchased the original "Antigua Casa Botín" in Plaza de Herradores (which had claimed an even earlier founding date of 1620) and closed it permanently in the 1960s to eliminate competition.

Perhaps the most remarkable feature of Sobrino de Botín is its legendary oven, which according to tradition has never been extinguished. Through the Spanish Civil War and even the recent COVID-19 pandemic, the restaurant has maintained this flame continuously. This oven is considered the restaurant's "crown jewel" and is central to preparing its signature dish.

Botín is renowned for its cochinillo asado (roast suckling pig), prepared according to a traditional recipe that has remained unchanged for generations. The preparation involves careful seasoning with spices, butter, wine and salt before the pork is roasted belly-up in the historic oven. As Javier Sanchéz Álvarez, the restaurant's deputy manager, notes, "It's very important that the skin of the cochinillo is very crunchy. If the skin isn't crunchy, it's not good."

Another beloved speciality is sopa de ajo—an egg poached in chicken broth, flavoured with sherry and garlic—particularly popular with late-night revellers in Madrid.

Sobrino de Botín boasts significant cultural connections. Ernest Hemingway famously mentioned the restaurant in the closing pages of his novel "The Sun Also Rises" (1926), writing: "We lunched up-stairs at Botin's. It is one of the best restaurants in the world. We had roast suckling pig and drank rioja alta." The restaurant also claims that Francisco de Goya worked in its kitchen before becoming a painter, adding another layer to its rich historical tapestry.

Today, Sobrino de Botín occupies four storeys of its historic building, which dates back to 1590. It can accommodate up to 200 diners, employs around 70 staff, and continues to attract visitors from around the world who come to taste its Castilian cuisine in an atmosphere steeped in history.

Despite challenges and the passage of time, the restaurant continues to thrive, offering patrons a dining experience that connects them to nearly three centuries of culinary tradition. For many visitors to Madrid, dining at the world's oldest restaurant remains an essential cultural experience that combines gastronomy with living history.