Modernizing Manipur: Inside the Culinary Innovation at Hentak

Tucked away in Delhi, a restaurant named Hentak is quietly challenging the conventions of regional Indian dining. Named after a traditional Manipuri fermented fish paste, the establishment serves as a platform for Chef Nikesh Asem to showcase the depth of his home state’s culinary traditions. Rather than adhering strictly to historical recipes, Chef Asem employs modern techniques and contemporary presentation to elevate ingredients that are often overlooked. His goal is to transform the restaurant into a landmark where diners can engage with the authentic, bold flavors of Manipur through a lens of modern culinary artistry.

The menu highlights the importance of foundational ingredients, such as perilla seeds and toasted ground flour, which are essential to the success of Singju, a popular Manipuri street food. During the preparation process, the dish is assembled with a variety of seasonal vegetables, including lotus roots, banana blossom, cabbage, and water spinach. The interactive nature of the meal—where elements are crushed and mixed together—is central to the experience. Beyond street-style snacks, the kitchen experiments with traditional vegetable stews like Kangsoi, infusing them with aromatic elements such as turmeric leaf to create complex, layered flavor profiles that remain rooted in tradition.

The restaurant’s approach extends to main courses and side dishes, where traditional ingredients are reimagined through diverse cooking methods. One notable offering features rice and Nakupi chives prepared in a style reminiscent of dum biryani, though the flavor profile remains distinctly Manipuri. Other dishes include pork cooked with Sirong chili and a spicy water foxnut preparation, which requires a specific, multi-step method to consume. These dishes are presented with an emphasis on visual aesthetics, with Chef Asem treating each plate like a canvas to reflect the artistic potential of regional ingredients.

The dining experience concludes with a dessert that highlights the intersection of Manipuri tradition and European pastry techniques. By transforming Chak-hao—a traditional rice variety—into a dish that incorporates elements of French and Italian choux pastry, the chef creates a final course that balances texture and flavor. For those unfamiliar with the cuisine, the meal serves as an introduction to new ingredients and regional textures, while even for those with a background in Manipuri food, the restaurant offers a fresh perspective on how heritage staples can be adapted for a modern palate.